Rockfax Description
A great challenge but unfortunately, in its totality, not a great climb. The best pitches are 2, 3, 9 and 10 (the latter two being Debauchery in reverse and Delicatessen). Start on the ledge, as for World's End.
1) 5c, 20m. Follow World's End to the break then traverse right to reach the hole on Amber Gambler.
2) 6b, 16m. Continue along the break in a magnificent position (very pumpy) then reverse M1 to the small ledge.
3) 6a, 20m. Climb back up to the break and continue the traverse all the way to the Entropy flake. Drop down to a belay.
4) 6a, 18m. Easier moves lead across Lay-by. Climb up this then move right to a small ledge.
5) 5b, 12m. A bad pitch on grassy rock. Take the easiest line rightwards moving slightly up to gain a ledge.
6) 5a, 18m. Keep going across more grassy rock to the big gully (High Tor Gully). Drop down to belay.
7) 4c, 40m. Drop down and right and pick up a break which leads across into Skylight.
8) 4b, 35m. Climb up Skylight into the chimney, then go diagonally across the wall, moving up to a hanging belay in a break.
9) 5b, 24m. Traverse rightwards to reach Debauchery. Reverse this to its stance.
10) 5b, 24m. Move right to Original Route and up to its belay. This is pitch 3 of Delicatessan.
11) 5a, 12m. Finish as for Original Route. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1976. FA. J.Allison, R.Mansfield 1961. The first aided ascent took 25 hours to complete..


Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Extreme Girdle


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ulysses or Bust

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)

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