Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
Largely forgotten since the best climbing is also taken by Decadence and the start is serious. Gain the thread on Decadence at 6m by either traversing in from Bastille (serious) or by climbing out of the left side of the low bulge (loose and serious). Follow the flakes of Decadence for 12m then trend right to follow the rock by the edge of the gully (thread). Head left to gain the white slabby recess (peg). Exit out the left side passing a thread to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Gain the thread on Decadence at 25 feet by either traversing in from Bastille (serious) or by climbing out of the left side of the low bulge (loose and serious). Follow the flakes of Decadence for 35 feet then trend right to follow the rock by the edge of the gully (TR) then head left to gain the white slabby recess (peg). Exit out the left side (TR) passing a thread to the top.
Ed Cleasby, Rob Matheson. Formerly an aid route 1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tony-S | 23 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route and the routes Musical Women and Decadence were all climbed in 1980. No one appears to know the order (within 1980) in which these 3 routes were climbed (each by different first ascent parties). For more information about the history of routes in this area, see “Peak Rock: The History, the Routes, the Climbers”. The topos for at least the lower portion of Tumbril are correct (start as for Bastille, moving right into Decadence, etc.) - this was confirmed by both first ascentionists. Additionally, both first ascentionists have expressed that any future bolting should be on a consensus basis. An appropriate forum to discuss this would be a BMC Peak Area meeting. (This post seeks to clarify some incomplete/inaccurate information present in a Feedback comment of 6 Jul 2024.) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This route and the routes Musical Women and Decadence were all climbed in 1980. No one appears to know the order (within 1980) in which these 3 routes were climbed (each by different first ascent parties). For more information about the history of routes in this area, see “Peak Rock: The History, the Routes, the Climbers”. The topos for at least the lower portion of Tumbril are correct (start as for Bastille, moving right into Decadence, etc.) - this was confirmed by both first ascentionists. Additionally, both first ascentionists have expressed that any future bolting should be on a consensus basis. An appropriate forum to discuss this would be a BMC Peak Area meeting. (This post seeks to clarify some incomplete/inaccurate information present in a Feedback comment of 6 Jul 2024.) |
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| shark | 27 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tony Stone (Tony-S). For consistency move this to the hybrids and link ups section. It is just a link up of Musical Women and Decsdence followed by artificially eliminate climbing just left of a gully according to your logic that is. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Tony Stone (Tony-S). For consistency move this to the hybrids and link ups section. It is just a link up of Musical Women and Decsdence followed by artificially eliminate climbing just left of a gully according to your logic that is. |
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| shark | 6 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The topo line for this is wrong on Rockfax and Peak Limestone South. It starts 10 feet right of Storming coming out left from the left end of the low bulge on awful rock. The alternative approach via Bastille is the start of Musical Women. I don’t know whether anyone actually started Tumbril this way. I contacted Ed Cleasby the first ascentionist about the route. His recollection of the route was hazy but he’s happy if someone wants to bolt the start | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The topo line for this is wrong on Rockfax and Peak Limestone South. It starts 10 feet right of Storming coming out left from the left end of the low bulge on awful rock. The alternative approach via Bastille is the start of Musical Women. I don’t know whether anyone actually started Tumbril this way. I contacted Ed Cleasby the first ascentionist about the route. His recollection of the route was hazy but he’s happy if someone wants to bolt the start |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Pool Wall
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Lawrencefield)