Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A minor eliminate but still just about worthwhile. Follow Zed Legs to over the second bulge but traverse across delicately left to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A good route. Start 2m left of Zed Legs and move up left to below a leaning shallow slot/hole. Climb up past this and pull onto the face above (thread). Move up and sightly right to a good thread/jug at the right end of the long bulge above. Pull onto the steep slab (Zed Legs is just right at this point) and move up to the shallow break. Tiptoe left along the break using quartzy footholds to the crack at its end and finish up to the bolt lower off on the wall above. Gaining the lower off more directly is harder.
FA. C.Cook, S.Berry 1977.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| shark | 24 Oct, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The two descriptions above conflict on the start of the route with the Rockfax desciption describing the original line (IIRC) ie starting up Zed Legs whilst the UKC logbook description provides an equally good start that is mainly independent of Zed Legs. Always liked this route and it’s not been superseded IMO. Reminiscent of Dies Irae at Stoney. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The two descriptions above conflict on the start of the route with the Rockfax desciption describing the original line (IIRC) ie starting up Zed Legs whilst the UKC logbook description provides an equally good start that is mainly independent of Zed Legs. Always liked this route and it’s not been superseded IMO. Reminiscent of Dies Irae at Stoney. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Midshipman / Plain Sailing
Grade: E2 6a ***
(Birchen Edge)