Rockfax Description
The most 'classic' of the classics here and the second most popular route in Wales according to UKC Logbooks. Of course 'classic' often also means polished and, in this case, the polish makes the route a good bit harder in the wet.
1) 45m. A quartzy slab leads to ledges and an A-shaped niche in the overlap. Pull through this. More slab work then leads to a stance.
2) 25m. The glossy twin-cracks allow for skiddy progress (good runners) to a flake. Step left onto the slab and climb the featured rock to belay in the corner.
3) 20m. More neat climbing on nice crinkly holds leads to a stance in the groove.
4) 28m. Climb the groove and sidestep the bulge leftwards, to reach ledgy ground.
5) 42m. Continue up the groove until things rear up and climb the polished step to ledges and escape left to a belay ledge. © Rockfax
Emily Daniel (née Young) 1915.
Ticklists
Classic Rock, A grand easy welsh day out, Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS, Snowdonia in Chains, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Big Ogwen Day Out, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Ogwen, Mountain Rock, Easy peasy Northy Weesy
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Felix Ottey | 12 Jul |
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βeta: Just as good as expected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Just as good as expected. |
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| Voiteck | 14 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: a bit polished in places and awkward descent, but definitely worth to do :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: a bit polished in places and awkward descent, but definitely worth to do :) |
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| gosset | 27 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Quite polished in some places. | ||
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βeta: Quite polished in some places. |
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| Madajo | 26 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Seems like every piece of rock is horribly polished. Also the abseil block isn't particularly obvious and doesn't seem to be connected to the main face. If this is such a common descent would it be so bad to add bolts? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seems like every piece of rock is horribly polished. Also the abseil block isn't particularly obvious and doesn't seem to be connected to the main face. If this is such a common descent would it be so bad to add bolts? |
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Logged Ascents
Flying Buttress
Grade: VD ***(Dinas Cromlech)