Rockfax Description
The most 'classic' of the classics here and the second most popular route in Wales according to UKC Logbooks. Of course 'classic' often also means polished and, in this case, the polish makes the route a good bit harder in the wet.
1) 45m. A quartzy slab leads to ledges and an A-shaped niche in the overlap. Pull through this. More slab work then leads to a stance.
2) 25m. The glossy twin-cracks allow for skiddy progress (good runners) to a flake. Step left onto the slab and climb the featured rock to belay in the corner.
3) 20m. More neat climbing on nice crinkly holds leads to a stance in the groove.
4) 28m. Climb the groove and sidestep the bulge leftwards, to reach ledgy ground.
5) 42m. Continue up the groove until things rear up and climb the polished step to ledges and escape left to a belay ledge. © Rockfax
Emily Daniel (n?e Young) 1915.
Ticklists
Classic Rock , A grand easy welsh day out , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , Snowdonia in Chains , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Big Ogwen Day Out , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Wales with M , LSMC to do
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Moi_taiga | 29 Apr |
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βeta: The abseil block is becoming less and less stable, don't understand why someone keeps removing the tat from the perfectly good rockspike below. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The abseil block is becoming less and less stable, don't understand why someone keeps removing the tat from the perfectly good rockspike below. |
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| PappaDaq | 20 Apr |
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βeta: Great wee route, did it as a group of 4! If going in the morning, would recommend taking some gloves as the slabs are in the shade all, if not, most of the morning :) Will be coming back for the multi-pitch swinging leads! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great wee route, did it as a group of 4! If going in the morning, would recommend taking some gloves as the slabs are in the shade all, if not, most of the morning :) Will be coming back for the multi-pitch swinging leads! |
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| G-walker89 | 21 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Definitely a classic, thoroughly enjoyed this clim. beware of the loose holds marked with an “X”. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely a classic, thoroughly enjoyed this clim. beware of the loose holds marked with an “X”. |
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| Trev199 | 28 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: A brilliant route, my first trad multi-pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: A brilliant route, my first trad multi-pitch |
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| Felix Ottey | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Just as good as expected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Just as good as expected. |
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| Voiteck | 14 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: a bit polished in places and awkward descent, but definitely worth to do :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: a bit polished in places and awkward descent, but definitely worth to do :) |
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| gosset | 27 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Quite polished in some places. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite polished in some places. |
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| Madajo | 26 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Seems like every piece of rock is horribly polished. Also the abseil block isn\'t particularly obvious and doesn\'t seem to be connected to the main face. If this is such a common descent would it be so bad to add bolts? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seems like every piece of rock is horribly polished. Also the abseil block isn't particularly obvious and doesn't seem to be connected to the main face. If this is such a common descent would it be so bad to add bolts? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Table Direct
Grade: VD ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)