UKC

140m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The easiest route up the impressive Idwal Slabs is very popular with experienced scramblers and climbers alike. It requires good rope skills and multi-pitch techniques and is often busy, but it does give a great way up this amazing bit of rock. Start below the long and wide cracks on the left of the slabs.
1) 45m. Follow the well-worn boot-crack to a massive wedged block. Climb over this to a good ledge on the left and a belay.
2) 45m. Take the left-hand groove for a few metres until a delicate traverse leads back right to a rightwards-trending line of weakness. Follow this until it cuts back left and belay on one of the numerous small ledges.
3) 25m. Follow the polished crack to the large ledge and various belays below a tower on the right.
4) 25m. Head left for 8m then back right to the terrace below the upper walls. You can climb direct here which is slightly harder.
5) Traverse left and head up what is now more scrambling territory. Continue up and left over a series of rock steps until you are on a prominent shoulder overlooking Senior's Gully.
Descent or continuation - Either carry on up the Direct Start to Senior's Ridge or descend via abseil or exposed down-climbing into Senior's Gully. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Heather's Multipitch Climbs, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, CUMC Ticklist, The Ogwen 1000, Welcome to CUMC, Big Ogwen Day Out, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, York University Students path to greatness, Mountain Rock, Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves, BSR multipitch routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stuck to a Rock 29 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Fun and juggy but the polish adds some spice. Rope recommended.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun and juggy but the polish adds some spice. Rope recommended.
Dom Roe 13 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stop stealing the tat!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stop stealing the tat!
Bilbo 29 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It certainly does go in the wet (when the trench can become a flowing stream) but after periods of persistent rain, it can become green and slimy lower down, limiting confident upward progressive to positive holds only. Generally improves further up.
Show beta
βeta: It certainly does go in the wet (when the trench can become a flowing stream) but after periods of persistent rain, it can become green and slimy lower down, limiting confident upward progressive to positive holds only. Generally improves further up.
liensiwel 22 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 info and rockfax guidebook topo is confusing to say the least. Every other guidebook suggests either trend right to avoid the steepening bulge or take it head on. Going left takes you towards a line of constant seepage. Thankfully my wife remonstrated with me to stay on clean dry rock (it was her first multi-pitch route). I went straight up the steepening bulge / nose. Yes, it's a bit harder but the holds are there. Seriously, don't go left from the ledge on the left. Go straight up.
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 info and rockfax guidebook topo is confusing to say the least. Every other guidebook suggests either trend right to avoid the steepening bulge or take it head on. Going left takes you towards a line of constant seepage. Thankfully my wife remonstrated with me to stay on clean dry rock (it was her first multi-pitch route). I went straight up the steepening bulge / nose. Yes, it's a bit harder but the holds are there. Seriously, don't go left from the ledge on the left. Go straight up.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Pillar Chimney

Grade: D ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)
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