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22m.

Rockfax Description
The steep angular corner is jammed and bridged to a stance on the Pulpit. Continue up the wide and awkward corner crack above to a tricky but well-protected exit up a short blank groove. © Rockfax

FAA. Harry Hartley 1953.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, UK Classic Corners, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Lawrencefield, The Gritlist, York University Students path to greatness, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS

Feedback

User Date Notes
GT87 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Great holds and gear
 
Show beta
βeta: Great holds and gear
EllenHolmes 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome climb! Fell a couple of times seconding on the bottom pitch as found the layback pretty hard, but a fantastic route. Final few moves must feel a bit desperate on lead!
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome climb! Fell a couple of times seconding on the bottom pitch as found the layback pretty hard, but a fantastic route. Final few moves must feel a bit desperate on lead!
roberto18 5 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, its what VS climbing is all about, sustained 4c all the way up, first section laybacking or jam you decide,best to do two pitches for full enjoyment. Top pitch hard to start but gets easier as you move up. 3 star route!
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route, its what VS climbing is all about, sustained 4c all the way up, first section laybacking or jam you decide,best to do two pitches for full enjoyment. Top pitch hard to start but gets easier as you move up. 3 star route!
Crammy 10 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Two very useful belay stakes now in place. Thank you whoever put them there even though one's a bit wobbly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two very useful belay stakes now in place. Thank you whoever put them there even though one's a bit wobbly.
Chris the Tall 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for the grade and harder than I remember. And I'd wish I'd read the comments about the stake - best to take a belay on the big ledge just below the top
βeta?
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βeta: Hard for the grade and harder than I remember. And I'd wish I'd read the comments about the stake - best to take a belay on the big ledge just below the top
wilkie14c 10 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Topend VS without a doubt. sustained but bomber cams (if you have plenty) we found out about the belay the hard way too. Luckly i belayed from the 'pulpit' and so when Dave came up, and then topped out to find no stake, we re-organised so i was on a single 9mm, doubled. and Dave belayed from the fencepost with the other 9mm. Bear this in mind for your climb!
βeta?
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βeta: Topend VS without a doubt. sustained but bomber cams (if you have plenty) we found out about the belay the hard way too. Luckly i belayed from the 'pulpit' and so when Dave came up, and then topped out to find no stake, we re-organised so i was on a single 9mm, doubled. and Dave belayed from the fencepost with the other 9mm. Bear this in mind for your climb!
DCR 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A belay can be set using the solid fence post but you will need extra rope. I had to walk down and borrow another rope as my 50m didn't quite reach! DavidR
βeta?
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βeta: A belay can be set using the solid fence post but you will need extra rope. I had to walk down and borrow another rope as my 50m didn't quite reach! DavidR
Si dH 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The start isnt too abd if you can jam ,the second section is very awkward and pumpy if you hang about, and the top section is quite technical. Top-end VS but no more I think.
βeta?
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βeta: The start isnt too abd if you can jam ,the second section is very awkward and pumpy if you hang about, and the top section is quite technical. Top-end VS but no more I think.
MNA123 13 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is graded HVS 4c in the old froggat guide,but VS 4C is a lot more appropiate slippy start but good gear and holds all the way to the lovely peg belay at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is graded HVS 4c in the old froggat guide,but VS 4C is a lot more appropiate slippy start but good gear and holds all the way to the lovely peg belay at the top.
GrahamD 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Can be jammed all the way in damp conditions or bridged in the dry. OK, its long but with rest ledges at regular intervals, nothing any all round VS leader shouldn't be happy to tackle.
βeta?
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βeta: Can be jammed all the way in damp conditions or bridged in the dry. OK, its long but with rest ledges at regular intervals, nothing any all round VS leader shouldn't be happy to tackle.
shaun walby 6 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Sustained top end VS, excellant rests bomber gear throughout. initial crack not too hard if you can bridge & jam, the crux for me was the second crack...tricky. Top crack again is tricky but so well protected you just go with the awkward exit. Incase your wondering...led my first HVS5a after this one...not a lot in it
βeta?
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βeta: Sustained top end VS, excellant rests bomber gear throughout. initial crack not too hard if you can bridge & jam, the crux for me was the second crack...tricky. Top crack again is tricky but so well protected you just go with the awkward exit. Incase your wondering...led my first HVS5a after this one...not a lot in it
Simon Caldwell 29 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I found the hardest bit near the bottom, went up and down several times trying to layback it, eventually tried jamming and it worked a treat. The rest seemed easy in comparison. Much as I'd like to claim my first HVS, I'd agree it's solid VS.
βeta?
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βeta: I found the hardest bit near the bottom, went up and down several times trying to layback it, eventually tried jamming and it worked a treat. The rest seemed easy in comparison. Much as I'd like to claim my first HVS, I'd agree it's solid VS.
Nick Smith - Climbers 24 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It's much easier to bridge and layback this route, rather than jamming it. Bit hard for VS perhaps, but plenty of good resting positions.
βeta?
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βeta: It's much easier to bridge and layback this route, rather than jamming it. Bit hard for VS perhaps, but plenty of good resting positions.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 337
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 314
Votes cast 286
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Hawk's Nest Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Froggatt Edge)