10m.
Rockfax Description
The thin crack is delicate above half-height. The gear that is supposed to protect the final crucial moves is pretty poor. © Rockfax
FA. Albert Shutt 1953. FFA. John Fearon 1955.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Grit Top Rope Solo
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pete McGlynn | 26 Apr |
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βeta: Small totem cams provide good protection for the crux | ||
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βeta: Small totem cams provide good protection for the crux |
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| napoleon_dynamite | 4 Feb |
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βeta: Thought it was v diff ...oops.. bit damp | βeta? | |
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βeta: Thought it was v diff ...oops.. bit damp |
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| Row | 5 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: The gear in the upper break to protect final moves is hard to find and absolute rubbish. Consequently felt bold for the grade, but pretty easy moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The gear in the upper break to protect final moves is hard to find and absolute rubbish. Consequently felt bold for the grade, but pretty easy moves. |
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| dycotiles | 10 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Nice and elegant, technical slab climbing. Placing wires to protect the top move would require skill and confidence. Instead, aliens or tricams can easily protect the hard final move. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice and elegant, technical slab climbing. Placing wires to protect the top move would require skill and confidence. Instead, aliens or tricams can easily protect the hard final move. |
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| Al Evans | 30 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Its a great route for anybody that can use Tri Cams, even better than friends for the crux on this one. Very soft at HVS though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Its a great route for anybody that can use Tri Cams, even better than friends for the crux on this one. Very soft at HVS though. |
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| drcorbasisgod | 7 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this is less than HVS is certainly not an HVS leader, and is probably into DWS at low tide. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this is less than HVS is certainly not an HVS leader, and is probably into DWS at low tide. |
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| Chris Craggs | 11 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: 48 out of 51 people for example! Chris | βeta? | |
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βeta: 48 out of 51 people for example! Chris |
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| Jonathan T | 25 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt easier than Once Pegged and not a whole lot harder than Gingerbread. Top end 4c with poor gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt easier than Once Pegged and not a whole lot harder than Gingerbread. Top end 4c with poor gear. |
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| mat_galvin | 20 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: I'm with Mat on this one. Gear okay but wouldn't like to test it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'm with Mat on this one. Gear okay but wouldn't like to test it! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 18 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this is adequately protected by microwires should read the article in Summit underlining how little it takes for them to fail | βeta? | |
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this is adequately protected by microwires should read the article in Summit underlining how little it takes for them to fail |
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| Rampikino | 17 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Anyone with enough experience of a wide range of gritstone routes will know that HVS 5a is absolutely correct for this route. The hardest move IS 5a, and the gear situation means that you wouldn't want to fall on the little specialist bits of gear you've crammed into the awful placements near the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Anyone with enough experience of a wide range of gritstone routes will know that HVS 5a is absolutely correct for this route. The hardest move IS 5a, and the gear situation means that you wouldn't want to fall on the little specialist bits of gear you've crammed into the awful placements near the top. |
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| leon | 15 May, 2004 |
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βeta: i thought the gear was rubbish. the only thing that looked any good was a micro nut placement about 10 feet off the ground. but thats not a problem coz all the holds are great, easy 4c max & never hvs even on a solo. | βeta? | |
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βeta: i thought the gear was rubbish. the only thing that looked any good was a micro nut placement about 10 feet off the ground. but thats not a problem coz all the holds are great, easy 4c max & never hvs even on a solo. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 28 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: This would have been HVS to solo, laced with micro wires and a tricam it felt like easy VS | βeta? | |
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βeta: This would have been HVS to solo, laced with micro wires and a tricam it felt like easy VS |
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| Monk | 6 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: You don't need aliens. A Friend half fits nicely. Nice route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You don't need aliens. A Friend half fits nicely. Nice route. |
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| Stefan Kruger | 28 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Protectable - just - with specialist gear (BD Swedges and a small alien at the top). Felt fluttery, even if the climbing was easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Protectable - just - with specialist gear (BD Swedges and a small alien at the top). Felt fluttery, even if the climbing was easy. |
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| Dave Mason | 12 Nov, 2002 |
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βeta: Enjoyable climb, don't believe all of the hype about a lack of gear at the top. V Small wires may be of help. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Enjoyable climb, don't believe all of the hype about a lack of gear at the top. V Small wires may be of help. |
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Route of Interest
Joint Effort
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Staden Quarry)