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10m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack is delicate above half-height. The gear that is supposed to protect the final crucial moves is pretty poor. © Rockfax

FA. Albert Shutt 1953. FFA. John Fearon 1955.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs

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User Date Notes
EllenHolmes 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I think the grade comes from the lack of gear rather than the difficulty of the climb. Feels fine to second but need a strong headgame to lead
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βeta: I think the grade comes from the lack of gear rather than the difficulty of the climb. Feels fine to second but need a strong headgame to lead
dycotiles 10 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice and elegant, technical slab climbing. Placing wires to protect the top move would require skill and confidence. Instead, aliens or tricams can easily protect the hard final move.
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βeta: Nice and elegant, technical slab climbing. Placing wires to protect the top move would require skill and confidence. Instead, aliens or tricams can easily protect the hard final move.
Al Evans 30 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Its a great route for anybody that can use Tri Cams, even better than friends for the crux on this one. Very soft at HVS though.
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βeta: Its a great route for anybody that can use Tri Cams, even better than friends for the crux on this one. Very soft at HVS though.
drcorbasisgod 7 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone who thinks this is less than HVS is certainly not an HVS leader, and is probably into DWS at low tide.
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this is less than HVS is certainly not an HVS leader, and is probably into DWS at low tide.
Chris Craggs 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 48 out of 51 people for example! Chris
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βeta: 48 out of 51 people for example! Chris
Jonathan T 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt easier than Once Pegged and not a whole lot harder than Gingerbread. Top end 4c with poor gear.
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βeta: Felt easier than Once Pegged and not a whole lot harder than Gingerbread. Top end 4c with poor gear.
mat_galvin 20 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm with Mat on this one. Gear okay but wouldn't like to test it!
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βeta: I'm with Mat on this one. Gear okay but wouldn't like to test it!
Simon Caldwell 18 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone who thinks this is adequately protected by microwires should read the article in Summit underlining how little it takes for them to fail
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this is adequately protected by microwires should read the article in Summit underlining how little it takes for them to fail
Rampikino 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone with enough experience of a wide range of gritstone routes will know that HVS 5a is absolutely correct for this route. The hardest move IS 5a, and the gear situation means that you wouldn't want to fall on the little specialist bits of gear you've crammed into the awful placements near the top.
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βeta: Anyone with enough experience of a wide range of gritstone routes will know that HVS 5a is absolutely correct for this route. The hardest move IS 5a, and the gear situation means that you wouldn't want to fall on the little specialist bits of gear you've crammed into the awful placements near the top.
leon 15 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i thought the gear was rubbish. the only thing that looked any good was a micro nut placement about 10 feet off the ground. but thats not a problem coz all the holds are great, easy 4c max & never hvs even on a solo.
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βeta: i thought the gear was rubbish. the only thing that looked any good was a micro nut placement about 10 feet off the ground. but thats not a problem coz all the holds are great, easy 4c max & never hvs even on a solo.
Jon Greengrass 28 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This would have been HVS to solo, laced with micro wires and a tricam it felt like easy VS
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βeta: This would have been HVS to solo, laced with micro wires and a tricam it felt like easy VS
Monk 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You don't need aliens. A Friend half fits nicely. Nice route.
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βeta: You don't need aliens. A Friend half fits nicely. Nice route.
Stefan Kruger 28 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Protectable - just - with specialist gear (BD Swedges and a small alien at the top). Felt fluttery, even if the climbing was easy.
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βeta: Protectable - just - with specialist gear (BD Swedges and a small alien at the top). Felt fluttery, even if the climbing was easy.
Dave Mason 12 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable climb, don't believe all of the hype about a lack of gear at the top. V Small wires may be of help.
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βeta: Enjoyable climb, don't believe all of the hype about a lack of gear at the top. V Small wires may be of help.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 286
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 271
Votes cast 231
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Cataclysm

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wildcat)