UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The original line that gained the upper wall from the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The original route on this wall before the direct was added is a very worthwhile alternative and avoids the desperate start! Start up the crackline to the right then traverse leftwards at the third bolt via hard moves before continuing up the hard wall above on very small holds. For the tick you have to clip the belay whilst holding the top of the ledge, no grabbing it!

Jon Clark 2008.

Ticklists

James' Summer Ticklist , Soft Touches

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nick Sherring 15 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: since earlier in the year, the bigger crystal forming best part of the central sharp pinch in the middle of the top crux has gone. There are several variants on this whole crux section depending on height etc, but if you use this hold more than very briefly i feel it is definitely now harder, conditions also still being key for this crux. So if this was considered 'soft 8a' before, i doubt it is now unless you can lank past this hold as i've seen done by tall people, or use a different cunning approach.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: since earlier in the year, the bigger crystal forming best part of the central sharp pinch in the middle of the top crux has gone. There are several variants on this whole crux section depending on height etc, but if you use this hold more than very briefly i feel it is definitely now harder, conditions also still being key for this crux. So if this was considered 'soft 8a' before, i doubt it is now unless you can lank past this hold as i've seen done by tall people, or use a different cunning approach.

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Free Monster

Grade: 8a ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)

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