UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
One of the Culm Coast's greatest lines - both intimidating and sustained. A good number of cams is needed. Start below the steepening corner on the left of the face.
Follow the corner past an awkward initial section to below the smooth-walled upper corner. Climb the sustained corner-crack to the small upper overhang, pull over this to reach the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Keith Darbyshire 30.4.71 30/Apr/1971.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , UK Classic Corners , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Cornwall , Culm Along , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 20 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The 2010 West Country Climbs Rockfax says topping out via the final ridge is "unstable". This is an understatement, the ridge above the middle fin may look like a fun line but it's a mud g loose rock fest on rather vertical terrain with little options for gear. It's very dangerous. Use double ropes instead and ab off the Insitu chain.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 2010 West Country Climbs Rockfax says topping out via the final ridge is "unstable". This is an understatement, the ridge above the middle fin may look like a fun line but it's a mud g loose rock fest on rather vertical terrain with little options for gear. It's very dangerous. Use double ropes instead and ab off the Insitu chain.
danieljames123 1 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Topping out hold may be a little bit loose. Moves when grabbed, though stays put as of Jun 2019. Another large bit of rock has a fair bit of give before the long straight crack, so mind that as well. Still solid and safe on the whole though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Topping out hold may be a little bit loose. Moves when grabbed, though stays put as of Jun 2019. Another large bit of rock has a fair bit of give before the long straight crack, so mind that as well. Still solid and safe on the whole though.
Furzy Sleight 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: superb very long pitch - sw answer to "Great north road"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: superb very long pitch - sw answer to "Great north road"

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 114
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 107
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Queen of the May

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Vellan Head Area)

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