Rockfax Description
One of the Culm Coast's greatest lines - both intimidating and sustained. A good number of cams is needed. Start below the steepening corner on the left of the face. Follow the corner past an awkward initial section to below the smooth walled upper corner. Climb the sustained corner-crack to a small overhang, pull over this and reach the top just above. © Rockfax
FA. Keith Darbyshire 30.4.71 30/Apr/1971.
Ticklists
Kernow , West Country Climbs , UK Classic Corners , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Cornwall , Culm Along , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , HS-HVS adventures , Culm/Devon options
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kike Kikon | 20 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 2010 West Country Climbs Rockfax says topping out via the final ridge is "unstable". This is an understatement, the ridge above the middle fin may look like a fun line but it's a mud g loose rock fest on rather vertical terrain with little options for gear. It's very dangerous. Use double ropes instead and ab off the Insitu chain. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The 2010 West Country Climbs Rockfax says topping out via the final ridge is "unstable". This is an understatement, the ridge above the middle fin may look like a fun line but it's a mud g loose rock fest on rather vertical terrain with little options for gear. It's very dangerous. Use double ropes instead and ab off the Insitu chain. |
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| danieljames123 | 1 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Topping out hold may be a little bit loose. Moves when grabbed, though stays put as of Jun 2019. Another large bit of rock has a fair bit of give before the long straight crack, so mind that as well. Still solid and safe on the whole though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Topping out hold may be a little bit loose. Moves when grabbed, though stays put as of Jun 2019. Another large bit of rock has a fair bit of give before the long straight crack, so mind that as well. Still solid and safe on the whole though. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 2 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: superb very long pitch - sw answer to "Great north road" | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: superb very long pitch - sw answer to "Great north road" |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point
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Wreckin' and Divin'
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Compass Point (Bude))