UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
80m.

Rockfax Description
6a, S0, 80m. A good circular traverse and a fun introduction to the area. Start on the beach and head round the west tip of the Stair Hole Promontory. Continue into the West Cave at (or very near) sea level, to emerge back on the beach. Some say it climbs even better in reverse? © Rockfax

FSA. Jon Williams 23/May/1990.

Ticklists

Dorset weekender , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Dorset DWS progression , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , LSMC to do , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , South England DWS Dreams , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

Feedback

User Date Notes
ajhclimbing 28 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route better with Mr Lynn taking a dunk!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route better with Mr Lynn taking a dunk!
OneBeardedWalker 24 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fell off on high move through cave
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βeta: Fell off on high move through cave
RayManta 2 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wear secure trunks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wear secure trunks.
django 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure where we went wrong but the last section back to the beach felt hard!
Show beta
βeta: Not sure where we went wrong but the last section back to the beach felt hard!
Alex More 27 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This one climbs better if you reverse it, the moves are slightly harder heading out through the cave first ... to the sea and beyond!
Show beta
βeta: This one climbs better if you reverse it, the moves are slightly harder heading out through the cave first ... to the sea and beyond!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 49
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Bouldered
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
David's Metraverse

Grade: HVS 4a ***
(Cave Hole)

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