Climb the SW side of the 'Needle'
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Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks , Climbs To Do On Lundy , Lundy , Ultimate Sea Stack , 2020/21 Trips , HS-HVS adventures
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jon59 | 19 Aug |
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βeta: Today, I have rigged the descent abseil from the island cliff with a new carabiner and orange 12mm rope and rigged the descent from the pinnacle with the same and removed all existing crap tat…enjoy | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Today, I have rigged the descent abseil from the island cliff with a new carabiner and orange 12mm rope and rigged the descent from the pinnacle with the same and removed all existing crap tat…enjoy |
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| acrawley | 14 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort. |
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Route of Interest
Central Groove
Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)