Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.
A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.
Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.
Dates: 31 March to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:
- Unrestricted (year round access)
- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August
- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September
Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.
Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions.
Unrestricted
Restricted 31 March - 14 August
Restricted 31 March - 15 September
These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks , Climbs To Do On Lundy , Lundy , Ultimate Sea Stack , 2020/21 Trips , HS-HVS adventures
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
acrawley | 14 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)