Climbing inspiration, supported by you

Climbing inspiration, supported by you

Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

Loading Notifications...

Covid-19

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving.

Please proceed with caution though. More details.

UKClimbing Team

27m.

Rockfax Description
Arguably THE hard wall climb of its era. It's a mighty route, with a weighty reputation - and one which sees very few ascents even today, despite being featured on the cover of a famous hardback rock climbing book, and having no dodgy fixed gear.
It follows the soaring right-hand crack, which rather inconveniently peters out above the traverse of Dog Nobbler. The section above constitutes the crux; your aim is to press on to the next breakline, where the climbing becomes just a tad easier... © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett, G.Fawcett Jul/1982

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Worthwhile E7's

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
_m.cox_ 29 Jun, 2019 2nd dog Thin and techy. Would be an awesome onsight for someone way better than myself. Well executed by Mikey Coles.
with colesy
Thin and techy. Would be an awesome onsight for someone way better than myself. Well executed by Mikey Coles.
with colesy
colesy 29 Jun, 2019 Lead RP Great route. Had a look on a shunt last Sunday and then again before leading it today. Glad that I did as it's not a route to get on without warming up the fingers first! Safe for an onsight attempt but also hard!
with Matt Cox
Great route. Had a look on a shunt last Sunday and then again before leading it today. Glad that I did as it's not a route to get on without warming up the fingers first! Safe for an onsight attempt but also hard!
with Matt Cox
Hidden 8 Jun, 2019 Lead
Adam24B 11 Apr, 2018 Lead RP Had a go on the shunt last year then came back yesterday for a quick shunt session. Two top rope goes today to check gear and conditions (a bit on the damp side) and then went for the lead placing gear as I went. Glad I didn't fall off the last moves onto my size one wires a good 6m below!
Had a go on the shunt last year then came back yesterday for a quick shunt session. Two top rope goes today to check gear and conditions (a bit on the damp side) and then went for the lead placing gear as I went. Glad I didn't fall off the last moves onto my size one wires a good 6m below!
Ed morris 9 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Had a quick session a week ago on the shunt, returned today and toproped it as the sections were wet, then lead placing the gear on lead once the wind had dried it. Excellent climbing. Would be a hard onsight.
Had a quick session a week ago on the shunt, returned today and toproped it as the sections were wet, then lead placing the gear on lead once the wind had dried it. Excellent climbing. Would be a hard onsight.
Tom Livingstone 8 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf 2 goes ground up. Got to within a move or two of the second break but no cigar. Cool climbing, rematch awaits.
2 goes ground up. Got to within a move or two of the second break but no cigar. Cool climbing, rematch awaits.
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
hamer89 ? Jul, 2015 Lead RP Well ard and fingery climbing. Very thing and techy and a bit run out. Classic 80's wall climb by big ron.
Well ard and fingery climbing. Very thing and techy and a bit run out. Classic 80's wall climb by big ron.
pipof747 16 Sep, 2013 Lead RP Awesome climb, found crux brick hard, the top still pumpy.. big respect to big Ron!
Awesome climb, found crux brick hard, the top still pumpy.. big respect to big Ron!
Keendan 13 Jun, 2013 TR dog With the shunt. Desperate crux on opposing side pulls. Not psyched to return to it.
With the shunt. Desperate crux on opposing side pulls. Not psyched to return to it.
Hidden 13 Jun, 2013 TR dog
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead dnf
dr evil 21 Jul, 1993 Lead G/U Ground up with one fall
with Gary Latter
Ground up with one fall
with Gary Latter
keefe 26 Sep, 1991 -
Paul Clarke ??, 1990 2nd O/S Runners came out on traverse after crux. Would have been a big swing so clung on!
with Paul Greenland
Runners came out on traverse after crux. Would have been a big swing so clung on!
with Paul Greenland
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 3
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Black Lagoon

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Huntsman's Leap)