UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The open scoop gives nice technical climbing past lots of rather tired small-wire slots to a leftwards exit. The climb was once described as "being a bit like a well-protected Green Death". Well, it is a groove in a quarry. © Rockfax

FFA. Steve Chadwick 1969.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Millstone London roads and places (Not finished), Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
dycotiles 10 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very techical but not pumpy. Delicate footwork, smearing and bridging, very delightful moves! Seconded this but wouldn't have liked to lead it! My partner put very poor gear and if we would have fallen off the crux he would have decked. Need to know what you're doing on this one.
βeta?
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βeta: Very techical but not pumpy. Delicate footwork, smearing and bridging, very delightful moves! Seconded this but wouldn't have liked to lead it! My partner put very poor gear and if we would have fallen off the crux he would have decked. Need to know what you're doing on this one.
JDDD 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. Requires decisive footwork and a determination not to fall. I guess it gives an idea of what hard climbing might be like as one progresses through the grades.
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome route. Requires decisive footwork and a determination not to fall. I guess it gives an idea of what hard climbing might be like as one progresses through the grades.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest E1 at Millstone I reckon! Take those small nuts.
βeta?
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βeta: The hardest E1 at Millstone I reckon! Take those small nuts.
Chris Craggs 22 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Poor rps at the start then better gear inc Friend 0 in a slot on the right. Crux is getting into the final groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Poor rps at the start then better gear inc Friend 0 in a slot on the right. Crux is getting into the final groove.

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Route of Interest

Time for Tea Original

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)
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