UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack - fortunately it is easier than it looks, though the right wall is often a bit green and slippery. Threaded chockstones or large cams protect. Those heading Stateside might want to 'off-width' it just for the practice - a whole different ball-game at 5.9! © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Wide Cracks, Millstone HVS's, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, WideBoyz Crack School, UK road to wide crack mastery, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Michelle's crack ticklist, Millstone Edge, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Peak District Grit Graded List, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
pauline_chester 1 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Can use Black Diamond C4 size 5 in the crack, size 4 would have been handy too at some narrow points.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can use Black Diamond C4 size 5 in the crack, size 4 would have been handy too at some narrow points.
JHiley 3 May Show βeta
βeta: No chock-stones in the main crack/ after the initial steps.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No chock-stones in the main crack/ after the initial steps.
althesin 21 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Chockstone fell out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chockstone fell out.
Chris Craggs 27 Sep, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 4c without a monster cam - the middle layback goes on a bit!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS 4c without a monster cam - the middle layback goes on a bit!
Graham Withers 8 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe four feet below the top there is a short section where the laybacking is less positive. I fell from here so am biased, but other climbers helping me after were either being very nice or agreed with me that it is HVS and committing.
Show beta
βeta: Maybe four feet below the top there is a short section where the laybacking is less positive. I fell from here so am biased, but other climbers helping me after were either being very nice or agreed with me that it is HVS and committing.
Offwidth 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Committing as a layback but perfectly secure and fine at the grade when dry. Offwidthing the bottom section is also OK if you have the skills. The top section just demands a layback. Probably HVS now without a Friend 5 as the bottom chockstone moves but should be graded VS 4c with a gear warning.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Committing as a layback but perfectly secure and fine at the grade when dry. Offwidthing the bottom section is also OK if you have the skills. The top section just demands a layback. Probably HVS now without a Friend 5 as the bottom chockstone moves but should be graded VS 4c with a gear warning.
mat_galvin 12 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very committing layback with feet on slippy green stuff. Only for a very positive day out!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very committing layback with feet on slippy green stuff. Only for a very positive day out!!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 65
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Mall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Millstone Edge)
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