Rockfax Description
An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack - fortunately it is easier than it looks, though the right wall is often a bit green and slippery. Threaded chockstones or large cams protect. Those heading Stateside might want to 'off-width' it just for the practice - a whole different ball-game at 5.9! © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke 1963.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Wide Cracks , Millstone HVS's , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , WideBoyz Crack School , UK road to wide crack mastery , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays
User | Date | Notes | ||
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PaulJepson | 13 Jun |
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βeta: There are 2 chockstones on the route currently. 1 at about 4m and 1 towards the bottom of the first half of the crack proper. These would be insufficient alone to protect the route, as you'd be landing back on the slab as soon as you'd moved past the second one. The second chockstone moved a bit when I stood on it. The scramble off is not trivial either; I'd recommend extending your anchor to the birch tree so you can handrail up to the bank. We both stayed roped up until safely back on the path. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are 2 chockstones on the route currently. 1 at about 4m and 1 towards the bottom of the first half of the crack proper. These would be insufficient alone to protect the route, as you'd be landing back on the slab as soon as you'd moved past the second one. The second chockstone moved a bit when I stood on it. The scramble off is not trivial either; I'd recommend extending your anchor to the birch tree so you can handrail up to the bank. We both stayed roped up until safely back on the path. |
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samt | 25 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Large cams not necessarily needed (chockstones lower down and small wire in Dr's Orders higher up. ) | ||
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βeta: Large cams not necessarily needed (chockstones lower down and small wire in Dr's Orders higher up. ) |
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paulinepavlova | 1 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Can use Black Diamond C4 size 5 in the crack, size 4 would have been handy too at some narrow points. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can use Black Diamond C4 size 5 in the crack, size 4 would have been handy too at some narrow points. |
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JHiley | 3 May, 2021 |
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βeta: No chock-stones in the main crack/ after the initial steps. | βeta? | |
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βeta: No chock-stones in the main crack/ after the initial steps. |
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althesin | 21 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Chockstone fell out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Chockstone fell out. |
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Chris Craggs | 27 Sep, 2009 |
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βeta: HVS 4c without a monster cam - the middle layback goes on a bit! | βeta? | |
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βeta: HVS 4c without a monster cam - the middle layback goes on a bit! |
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Graham Withers | 8 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Maybe four feet below the top there is a short section where the laybacking is less positive. I fell from here so am biased, but other climbers helping me after were either being very nice or agreed with me that it is HVS and committing. | ||
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βeta: Maybe four feet below the top there is a short section where the laybacking is less positive. I fell from here so am biased, but other climbers helping me after were either being very nice or agreed with me that it is HVS and committing. |
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Offwidth | 31 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Committing as a layback but perfectly secure and fine at the grade when dry. Offwidthing the bottom section is also OK if you have the skills. The top section just demands a layback. Probably HVS now without a Friend 5 as the bottom chockstone moves but should be graded VS 4c with a gear warning. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Committing as a layback but perfectly secure and fine at the grade when dry. Offwidthing the bottom section is also OK if you have the skills. The top section just demands a layback. Probably HVS now without a Friend 5 as the bottom chockstone moves but should be graded VS 4c with a gear warning. |
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mat_galvin | 12 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Very committing layback with feet on slippy green stuff. Only for a very positive day out!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very committing layback with feet on slippy green stuff. Only for a very positive day out!! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Higgar Tor)