UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
The middle finger-crack leads to the cave - worthwhile at solid HVS 5b. A tricky traverse left and technical wall gain a ledge on the arete. Trend rightwards more easily to finish.
FA Steve Bancroft 1976. Previously aided. © Rockfax

FFA. Steve Bancroft 1976.

Ticklists

Monopoly , Bugs training , Fantastic Fiddly Cracks , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 20 Good Gritstone E2s , Millstone HVS-E2 NIAD prep circuit

Feedback

User Date Notes
Richardlake 27 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Block has been pulled out of a section of the initial crack to the cave making it a little harder than the guide book suggests. Care needed with some other rock in that crack too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Block has been pulled out of a section of the initial crack to the cave making it a little harder than the guide book suggests. Care needed with some other rock in that crack too.
Misha 5 Apr Show βeta
βeta: A bit harder now after Dan pulled off a large block - jug replaced with more finger crack. The style police will be pleased! Fairly hard getting through that section - worth E1 to the cave now?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit harder now after Dan pulled off a large block - jug replaced with more finger crack. The style police will be pleased! Fairly hard getting through that section - worth E1 to the cave now?
Ropeboy 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant climbing. You can get a Friend 2.5 at foot level in the cave at the top of the Oxford Street to back-up the very poor belay. Small wires useful for the top wall. A lovely outing, low in the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant climbing. You can get a Friend 2.5 at foot level in the cave at the top of the Oxford Street to back-up the very poor belay. Small wires useful for the top wall. A lovely outing, low in the grade.
Toby Dunn 28 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the belay is a bit worse than 'indifferent', better to clip it with an 8ft sling and do the route as one pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the belay is a bit worse than 'indifferent', better to clip it with an 8ft sling and do the route as one pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Millstone Edge

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 63
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Regent Street

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)

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