Rockfax Description
Low in the grade but a bit bold. Follow the crack to a poor rest below the blank upper section. Build a safety net then balance left, high or low, to better holds. Either finish straight up or continue traversing to finish close to Embankment 3 - both options are about the same grade and equally scary. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The first ascent of this was done by me (Ken Wilkinson and Richard Thomas) in Nov 1974. The route name comes from the fact that I had to get back to Manchester for a not to be missed dinner.
The route I did started in the left hand crack and traversed to the right, which is given E2 now.
Quite why it is acceptable for the late self publicist Ed Ward Drummond to usurp the name and the line is beyond me.
FA. Ken Wilkinson, Richard Thomas 1974.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Memorable Climbs , Extreme 2018 , The Road to 8a , On Peak Rock , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , The Festival Of Shite , Bold Tradprenticeship , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , 2025 Benchmark
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JayW | 27 May |
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βeta: Bomber yellow offset at the top of the crack. | ||
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βeta: Bomber yellow offset at the top of the crack. |
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widdlestickmcpoos | 14 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Crack was harder than expected. Balancey top is airy but easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crack was harder than expected. Balancey top is airy but easy. |
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ksjs | 14 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: for 5c this felt straightforward; the fall wouldnt be very nice to take though (in reality almost certainly completely safe) - gear is very good. i thought one of the moves near the top of the crack required more thought than the crux. very enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: for 5c this felt straightforward; the fall wouldnt be very nice to take though (in reality almost certainly completely safe) - gear is very good. i thought one of the moves near the top of the crack required more thought than the crux. very enjoyable. |
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The Pylon King | 13 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Traverse low then mantle your way up. | ||
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βeta: Traverse low then mantle your way up. |
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SteveC | 29 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: The first crack is no pushover - harder than Embankment 3 and 4. The crux is safe, though - a long fall but harmless. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The first crack is no pushover - harder than Embankment 3 and 4. The crux is safe, though - a long fall but harmless. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Millstone Edge)