III, 230m. A superb crack climb that follows a rough corner system, providing great climbing. The first pitch didn't exist in years past, but glacial retreat has created it and it now forms the crux of the route.
1) 6b/A0, 50m. A pitch that has been dramatically effected by glacial recession. Follow the bolt ladder to slabby ground trending rightwards to below a steep corner-crack through an overhang. Climb through this, past multiple pegs to reach a belay.
2) 5c, 35m. Climb the crack above, passing a belay before moving left to a good ledge beneath an obvious corner and a belay.
3) 5c, 20m. Follow the corner and move out left to a belay beneath a slabby corner.
4) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner crack.
5) 6a, 35m. Climb the grey rock and then cross into the athletic crack.
6) 5c, 40m. Continue up the corner/chimney as it becomes increasingly blocky.
7) 5b, 20m. A short pitch up the wide chimney/corner system. Belay on the left.
8) 5c, 50m. Follow the corner system on the right of the spur to a ledge on the right and single bolt belay beneath the final steepening.
9) 5c. Follow the steep corner crack off the ledge until it lessens off. Follow lines of weakness to a final belay on the crest. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The great red Diedre in the centre of the face.
G. Bettembourg, H Thiverage 25/Apr/1975.
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