UKC

300m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 240m. A striking line up the golden edge of the face. The climbing is as good as it looks and the ambience is incredible. The route begins on some broken ground at the toe of the buttress. All the belays are bolted and equipped for abseil.
1) 4c, 40m. Scramble onto the broken rocks then climb a corner-crack to a belay on a ledge.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb the crack through the overhang above the belay, on the crest of the ridge. This proves to be both technical and fairly physical. There is a hidden peg which is hard to spot.
3) 5c, 25m. Follow a superb crack left of the crest of the ridge.
4) 5b, 25m. Step left and follow the groove to a large ledge.
5) 5c, 35m. The chimney straight above the belay leads to a short crack and then another corner heading out left. Follow this (ignore the belay on the left when you emerge from the second corner) and climb the cracked slab above for 10m. Amongst the local guides this pitch is known as the 'dièdre lisse' - the slippery groove. Say no more!
6) 5a, 35m. Follow the wide crack up the steep slab to a ledge 5m left of the arête.
7) 5b, 30m. Follow flakes and cracks up and left, heading directly for a distinctive V-shaped notch of the left - the belay is in the notch.
8) 5c, 40m. Climb flakes and cracks above and then a corner system above. The belay is on the summit ridge of the Pointe Adolphe Rey. It is possible to continue up the ridge to the summit from here, or abseil back down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic steep crack climb on the East-South East spur of the peak. V+.

T.Busi, F.Salluard 06/Sep/1951.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz

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User Date Notes
Webster 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: the absail station at the top of the crux pitch is about 3m to the left of the two bolt belay on the same ledge, but just round the corner out of sight, in case you dont spot it on the way up. this can get you all the way down to the bags with 60m ropes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the absail station at the top of the crux pitch is about 3m to the left of the two bolt belay on the same ledge, but just round the corner out of sight, in case you dont spot it on the way up. this can get you all the way down to the bags with 60m ropes

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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 4
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nabot-Léon

Grade: TD- 5c ***
(Aiguille de Blaitière)

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