III, 240m. A striking line up the golden edge of the face. The climbing is as good as it looks and the ambience is incredible. The route begins on some broken ground at the toe of the buttress. All the belays are bolted and equipped for abseil.
1) 4c, 40m. Scramble onto the broken rocks then climb a corner-crack to a belay on a ledge.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb the crack through the overhang above the belay, on the crest of the ridge. This proves to be both technical and fairly physical. There is a hidden peg which is hard to spot.
3) 5c, 25m. Follow a superb crack left of the crest of the ridge.
4) 5b, 25m. Step left and follow the groove to a large ledge.
5) 5c, 35m. The chimney straight above the belay leads to a short crack and then another corner heading out left. Follow this (ignore the belay on the left when you emerge from the second corner) and climb the cracked slab above for 10m. Amongst the local guides this pitch is known as the 'dièdre lisse' - the slippery groove. Say no more!
6) 5a, 35m. Follow the wide crack up the steep slab to a ledge 5m left of the arête.
7) 5b, 30m. Follow flakes and cracks up and left, heading directly for a distinctive V-shaped notch of the left - the belay is in the notch.
8) 5c, 40m. Climb flakes and cracks above and then a corner system above. The belay is on the summit ridge of the Pointe Adolphe Rey. It is possible to continue up the ridge to the summit from here, or abseil back down. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Classic steep crack climb on the East-South East spur of the peak. V+.
T.Busi, F.Salluard 06/Sep/1951.
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