II, 245m. Cross the bergschrund - this can be tricky in late summer when the glacier is dry so make sure you are competent in dealing with crevasses/bergschrunds before heading up. Climb up to a comfortable ledge system beneath some blocky ground. Most people leave boots, crampons and ice axes here and collect them on the way down.
1) 3a, Scramble up the gully and follow the ramp-line out right to a belay beneath a corner.
2) 4b, Climb the corners to a ledge.
3) 3a, Follow slabs and then a ramp-line out rightwards.
4) 4c, Drift left then back right via some excellent slabby crack climbing.
5) 5a, Head up the cracked slab and then go just left of the overhang via a steep groove which is well protected and furnished with plenty of big holds. Carry on up a slab above the groove to a belay with an excellent view of the pitch you've just done.
6) 4c, Follow the ramp out rightwards then go straight up to end up below steep, parallel cracks. Climb up to these then step out right onto a slab and follow this to a belay.
From here the route becomes much more vague and the slabs can be climbed almost anywhere. As long as you stay just to the right of the ridge crest you shouldn't go far wrong so don't worry if you don't stick exactly to the line.
7) 4b, Climb the slabs, drifting left to a belay on a white section of rock.
8) 4a, Continue leftwards before going straight up, just to the right of the ridge crest.
9) 3c, Enjoyable, easy slab climbing on some stunning golden granite leads to the summit. The scenery is mind-blowing so soak it in! © Rockfax
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