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220m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II,185m. One of the most popular routes in this area when in condition, being first on the route on any given day is often dependent on who can get down the Midi arête and ski over to the route fastest! It is usually quieter midweek and much of the climbing is mixed, so the risk of falling ice isn't quite as high as on a pure ice route. The quality of the pitches make it worth putting up with some company.
1) 3, 50m. Climb the snowfield easily and go up a short icy step (which may not exist in snowy conditions) to belay on the left.
2) 3+, 40m. Follow the line of least resistance through some enjoyable, steady mixed climbing and belay on a block in the middle of the gully, beneath where it splits in two.
3) 4+, 50m. Take the left-hand line which is usually ice for the first half and mixed above. Belay on the left below a snow slope.
4) 4+, 25m. Climb the snow slope for 15m to a small, innocuous looking step which proves to be trickier than it looks. Having surmounted it with as much style as you can manage, carry on up another snow slope for 5m to a belay tucked away in a little cave on the left.
5) 5, 20m. It is possible to go right up a steep chimney (40m of 5b rock climbing/M5+ climbing to a block belay) but the traditional, and better, finish is to go straight up the steep cracks above and left of the belay. There is plenty of protection and the tough climbing is short lived but enjoyable. Above the cracks, continue up snow for a few metres and climb a final 3m step to reach a rock ridge. A bolted belay is on the right, 5m up from where you join the ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mixed route to the left of the Cecchinel-Jager. 4/5 pitches of ice and mixed. The route seems to be in condition more often than other comparable lines on the face.

M Pelissier.

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User Date Notes
Misha 18 Feb Show βeta
βeta: There are bolt belays but the pitches aren’t as described above. It’s over 60m from the schrund to the first bolted belay but there is tat on small spikes on the right just before the first mixed step. After that there’s a bolt belay on the left, then tat round a large spike (optional belay), then another bolt belay on the left. This is before the innocuous step described above. There is then a peg belay half way up the snow slope (optional belay) and a bolt belay on the left below the headwall. There is another bolt belay on the traditional finish, just before the crux (optional as 60m ropes will reach the top of the route but advisable for the abseils to reduce the risk of a jammed rope). Finally a bolt belay at the top of the route. All the bolt belays are within 60m of each other so the optional belays are just that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are bolt belays but the pitches aren’t as described above. It’s over 60m from the schrund to the first bolted belay but there is tat on small spikes on the right just before the first mixed step. After that there’s a bolt belay on the left, then tat round a large spike (optional belay), then another bolt belay on the left. This is before the innocuous step described above. There is then a peg belay half way up the snow slope (optional belay) and a bolt belay on the left below the headwall. There is another bolt belay on the traditional finish, just before the crux (optional as 60m ropes will reach the top of the route but advisable for the abseils to reduce the risk of a jammed rope). Finally a bolt belay at the top of the route. All the bolt belays are within 60m of each other so the optional belays are just that.

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Nabot-Léon

Grade: TD- 5c ***
(Aiguille de Blaitière)