Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).
Rockfax Description
The original line here but not a solo unless you try the Deep Water Alien version. Start on boulders below the triangular niche.
1) 8m, 5a. Climb the niche/crack to a big ledge.
2) 12m, 5c. Climb easily up the corner, then continue up to threads below the roof. Move left, then rightwards over the roof. Belay in the back of the cave.
3) 10m, 5c. Drop down right into a bottomless groove. Traverse up and rightwards to belay in a niche (on Anti-Matterhorn).
4) 9m, 5c. Continue scrunging up and right, to belay on a big ledge.
5) 13m, 5a. Step up and left onto the cracked, hanging wall, and press on up the deep crack to the top. © Rockfax
FA. C.Alston, F.Ramsay 23/Apr/1990.
101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)