Rockfax Description
The original line but not a solo unless you try the Deep Water Alien version. Start on boulders below the triangular niche.
1) 8m, 5a. Climb the niche/crack to a big ledge.
2) 12m, 5c. Climb easily up the corner, then continue up to threads below the roof. Move left, then rightwards over the roof. Belay in the back of the cave.
3) 10m, 5c. Drop down right into a bottomless groove. Traverse up and rightwards to belay in a niche (on Anti-Matterhorn).
4) 9m, 5c. Continue up and right, to belay on a big ledge.
5) 13m, 5a. Step up and left onto the cracked, hanging wall, and press on up the deep crack to the top. © Rockfax
FA. C.Alston, F.Ramsay 23/Apr/1990.
101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)