Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).
Rockfax Description
A superb and popular route. Start beneath a left-facing groove in the middle of the south face of the buttress. Climb over a small roof into the groove and follow this to the top of the big pedestal (possible belay if the sea is threatening). Climb up and left past a deep crack to gain a rising crackline. Follow this and at its end climb direct to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Broomhead Apr/1976.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembs Ticklist , Cianchi's Hit List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 10 Jun |
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βeta: Just absolutely brilliant. 5 stars! Felt steady all the way and great gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Just absolutely brilliant. 5 stars! Felt steady all the way and great gear. |
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Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Hilarious watching Coney drop a set of nuts before the crux. Fair play for keeping his composure and sailing on. I would have been losing my head watching in horror as the key set of mid-range nuts lands in the swell. This is defo harder than Strait Gates. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hilarious watching Coney drop a set of nuts before the crux. Fair play for keeping his composure and sailing on. I would have been losing my head watching in horror as the key set of mid-range nuts lands in the swell. This is defo harder than Strait Gates. |
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PaulTanton | 1 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Bang on for the grade. No hard moves just a lot of good moves | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bang on for the grade. No hard moves just a lot of good moves |
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plant_based_tommo | 3 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: great! sustained wall climbing with as much bomber gear as you could shake a rack at. | βeta? | |
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βeta: great! sustained wall climbing with as much bomber gear as you could shake a rack at. |
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Tommy_shaw | 6 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Wow, what an amazing route, very sustained all the way. Found leaving the middle shelf into the right diagonal crack quite tricky, but dig deep and chipped away to the top!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wow, what an amazing route, very sustained all the way. Found leaving the middle shelf into the right diagonal crack quite tricky, but dig deep and chipped away to the top!! |
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Gareth H | 12 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Direct finish worthwhile, pumpy but about E3. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Direct finish worthwhile, pumpy but about E3. |
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geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A really great route | βeta? | |
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βeta: A really great route |
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huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Didn't seem that low in the grade. Sustained climbing but well protected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't seem that low in the grade. Sustained climbing but well protected. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Iron Age Fort)