UKC

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An often-slimy experience up the landward wall. If it is dry, then it is a stunning and unusual addition to the Mother Carey's repertoire. Take lots of slings for the threads. Start inside the through cave, on the back landward wall, 6m left of Deep Space.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up cracks and pockets to a lump. Move right on big holds then climb to the roof. Pull around this with difficulty, then belay in the chimney.
2) 4c, 15m. Continue up rightwards towards the boulder choke and squeeze through the hole and finish as for Inner Space. © Rockfax

FA. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 30/Aug/1991.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Not sure if something has changed on the roof on this. Described as 'stupendous jugs' on the roof (and 'big holds' in my 2009 Rockfax description) which agrees with a report of Mikey Robertson who climbed it years ago. Currently it has anything but stupendous jugs - a nasty finger slot for your right hand that crunches your little finger and an f6B+/f6C boulder problem. Wouldn't argue with E3 6b for the grade. Brilliant otherwise but slightly spoilt by a ridiculously unbalanced crux. Worth noting that the threads are all in place (August 2021) making the lower wall a much easier propostion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure if something has changed on the roof on this. Described as 'stupendous jugs' on the roof (and 'big holds' in my 2009 Rockfax description) which agrees with a report of Mikey Robertson who climbed it years ago. Currently it has anything but stupendous jugs - a nasty finger slot for your right hand that crunches your little finger and an f6B+/f6C boulder problem. Wouldn't argue with E3 6b for the grade. Brilliant otherwise but slightly spoilt by a ridiculously unbalanced crux. Worth noting that the threads are all in place (August 2021) making the lower wall a much easier propostion.
Ian Milward 26 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Do it when it's dry and it's as good (if not better - weirder(?)) than Deep Space. Would be a more of a handful if the rock was as greasy as it's potentially slimy appearance suggests it can be. Take stacks of long slings for the many threads!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do it when it's dry and it's as good (if not better - weirder(?)) than Deep Space. Would be a more of a handful if the rock was as greasy as it's potentially slimy appearance suggests it can be. Take stacks of long slings for the many threads!

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
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Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
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Route of Interest

Alien World

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)
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