UKC

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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An often-slimy experience up the landward wall. If it is dry, then it is a stunning and unusual addition to the Mother Carey's repertoire. Take lots of slings for the threads although they are sometimes in place making the lower wall much easier. Start inside the through cave, on the back landward wall. Climb up cracks and pockets to a lump. Move right on big holds then climb to the roof and a good rest. Pull around this with great difficulty using a very painful finger slot. Back and foot up from here - possible belay. Continue up rightwards towards the boulder choke and squeeze through the hole and finish as for Inner Space. © Rockfax

FA. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 30/Aug/1991.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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User Date Notes
Misha 5 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The first thread is knackered, recommend taking a knife to cut it out. It’s possible to fiddle in a thin sling but would be a lot easier without the existing thread there. The other threads are currently ok though some are getting old. Take zillions of 60cm slings as there are lots more threading possibilities, plus the in situ threads below the roof need extending. I backed up the two threads below the roof with 120cm slings, which is easy to do (one of the in situ ones is quite old, the other one is ok). I used 8 60cm slings in addition to this but could have used another half a dozen!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first thread is knackered, recommend taking a knife to cut it out. It’s possible to fiddle in a thin sling but would be a lot easier without the existing thread there. The other threads are currently ok though some are getting old. Take zillions of 60cm slings as there are lots more threading possibilities, plus the in situ threads below the roof need extending. I backed up the two threads below the roof with 120cm slings, which is easy to do (one of the in situ ones is quite old, the other one is ok). I used 8 60cm slings in addition to this but could have used another half a dozen!
Misha 5 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Roof beta: from the juggy break above the rest, build feet up, LH thumb down fingerlock in a small vertical slot, RH gaston on a juggy edge R of the slot, LG horizontal heel toe in the juggy break, romp up the jugs after that. Goes at a techy 6a.
Show beta
βeta: Roof beta: from the juggy break above the rest, build feet up, LH thumb down fingerlock in a small vertical slot, RH gaston on a juggy edge R of the slot, LG horizontal heel toe in the juggy break, romp up the jugs after that. Goes at a techy 6a.
Alan James - Rockfax 28 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure if something has changed on the roof on this. Described as 'stupendous jugs' on the roof (and 'big holds' in my 2009 Rockfax description) which agrees with a report of Mikey Robertson who climbed it years ago. Currently it has anything but stupendous jugs - a nasty finger slot for your right hand that crunches your little finger and an f6B+/f6C boulder problem. Wouldn't argue with E3 6b for the grade. Brilliant otherwise but slightly spoilt by a ridiculously unbalanced crux. Worth noting that the threads are all in place (August 2021) making the lower wall a much easier propostion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure if something has changed on the roof on this. Described as 'stupendous jugs' on the roof (and 'big holds' in my 2009 Rockfax description) which agrees with a report of Mikey Robertson who climbed it years ago. Currently it has anything but stupendous jugs - a nasty finger slot for your right hand that crunches your little finger and an f6B+/f6C boulder problem. Wouldn't argue with E3 6b for the grade. Brilliant otherwise but slightly spoilt by a ridiculously unbalanced crux. Worth noting that the threads are all in place (August 2021) making the lower wall a much easier propostion.
Ian Milward 26 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Do it when it's dry and it's as good (if not better - weirder(?)) than Deep Space. Would be a more of a handful if the rock was as greasy as it's potentially slimy appearance suggests it can be. Take stacks of long slings for the many threads!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do it when it's dry and it's as good (if not better - weirder(?)) than Deep Space. Would be a more of a handful if the rock was as greasy as it's potentially slimy appearance suggests it can be. Take stacks of long slings for the many threads!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rock around the Block

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Trevallen Cliff)

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