Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).
Rockfax Description
A good route which uses the start of Eight Gauge to gain the fine crack to the left of Brazen Buttress. Climb the pillar on the front right-hand side of the through cave, then step right onto a ramp (as for Eight Gauge). Follow the ramp to a crack in the smooth wall. Climb the crack and another crack on the right until the wall blanks out above a jug. Make a tricky move up and left to easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. R.Harrison, R.Broomhead 25/Mar/1978.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Yet another downgrade. Poxy guide books! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yet another downgrade. Poxy guide books! |
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psicobloc | 17 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c. |
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Justin Shiels | 3 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)