Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
If you thought that the other routes on this wall were steep then take a look at this one! It is a direct start to Tiger Tiger which requires a very low spring tide and dry conditions. If these two criteria are satisfied, start in the cave right of the face, below a thread in the middle of nowhere. Step off a boulder and climb an overhanging crack to some overhanging pockets. Pull up above to join Tiger Tiger at its good hold. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, T.Hodgson 1994.
Ticklists
The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Oranges and Lemons
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Stackpole Head)