UKC

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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).

51m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning route which makes the most of the right-hand side of the wall. Take a lot of small cams. Start from the ledge on Mother Night. Move out right to a large overhung, sloping ledge. Leave this rightwards into a steep groove which is followed to a good hold on its left-hand side. Pull up into a corner above and follow a crack up right to a roof. Move back leftwards up a crackline then climb the wall above to the top, finishing just left of a block. Around sport 7b. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 18/Jul/1979.

Ticklists

Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+

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Route of Interest
Circus Circus

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Rusty Walls)

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