UKC

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

12m.

Rockfax Description
Traverse rightwards to the sharp arete, and climb it precariously on its left side to gain the half-height ledge. Reverse down Snobs, or take on the scary upper arete (7a S3). © Rockfax

FSA. Julian Lines 01/Sep/2005.

Ticklists

DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
White Heat

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Lydstep Point Area)

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