Rockfax Description
The super-steep roof crack with a couple of threads in place. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Holdtickler | 13 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Also, couldn't see any sign of a stake above. Unless it's possible to belay from route below top, the only options might be the higher tier way back (spare rigging rope?) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Also, couldn't see any sign of a stake above. Unless it's possible to belay from route below top, the only options might be the higher tier way back (spare rigging rope?) |
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Holdtickler | 13 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Took a small fall on the top thread and ripped the chockstone out. Thankfully the ground wasn't far away. The 2nd sling next to it (not the lower chock thread, still in situ) turned out to be very small spike and fell off whilst examining it. When I next get a chance on a weekend, I'll replace the lower thread. I'll have a closer look at the spike and decide whether it's secure enough as an in situ piece and replace sling if so. As for the missing chockstone, I think the moves are protectable with either a 3or4 cam (bd) or 10/11 hex so think I'll just leave it out rather than risk creating another deathtrap replacing it. The space the the top chock and slings occupied may now reveal new jams/placements. Not good enough to comment whether this affects grade as already punching way above my weight on this one. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Took a small fall on the top thread and ripped the chockstone out. Thankfully the ground wasn't far away. The 2nd sling next to it (not the lower chock thread, still in situ) turned out to be very small spike and fell off whilst examining it. When I next get a chance on a weekend, I'll replace the lower thread. I'll have a closer look at the spike and decide whether it's secure enough as an in situ piece and replace sling if so. As for the missing chockstone, I think the moves are protectable with either a 3or4 cam (bd) or 10/11 hex so think I'll just leave it out rather than risk creating another deathtrap replacing it. The space the the top chock and slings occupied may now reveal new jams/placements. Not good enough to comment whether this affects grade as already punching way above my weight on this one. |
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Grade: E4 6c ***
(Eavestone Crag)