Restricted Access
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
2022 update - Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
One of the classic routes of the area which follows the most substantial line on the face. Start beneath the larger of the two right-facing corners. Climb the wall into the corner and follow this to the roof. The roof can be passed on either side. Move back to gain the exposed continuation groove/crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Garner May/1976.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Top 5 E2's in the UK? , 101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme 2018 , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| geoff b | 6 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Possibly 5c now, due to a small rock fall under the last roof. Well protected by big cams so still E2? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Possibly 5c now, due to a small rock fall under the last roof. Well protected by big cams so still E2? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mowing Word
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Underneath the Arches
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Mewsford Arches)