UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

42m.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic routes of the area which follows the most substantial line on the face. Start beneath the larger of the two right-facing corners. Climb the wall into the corner and follow this to the roof. The roof can be passed on either side. Move back to gain the exposed continuation groove/crack which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Garner May/1976.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Top 5 E2's in the UK? , 101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme 2018 , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gwinn512 4 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Bloc below roof is waiting to go. Pull carefully
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bloc below roof is waiting to go. Pull carefully
geoff b 6 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly 5c now, due to a small rock fall under the last roof. Well protected by big cams so still E2?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possibly 5c now, due to a small rock fall under the last roof. Well protected by big cams so still E2?

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 76
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rock Idol Direct Finish

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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