UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
A fine companion route to Chimes of Freedom. Start below two prominent right-facing grooves below the main line of overhangs. Climb the easy lower wall to the base of the right-hand groove then make a difficult move up left into the smaller left-hand groove. Follow it to its top then step right below the roof and pull over steeply onto a hanging arete. Go through a gap in the roof above to reach a break. Traverse left beneath another overhang and pull up into a crack which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, R.Broomhead Jul/1977.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist

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User Date Notes
Misha 27 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Best to belay after the groove, before the jig right, as there isn’t much of a ledge at the official belay spot. The guidebook description is correct in that you move right for about 3m and go up above the undercut arête (left of the arête in the overhang above) - looks a bit unlikely but believe in what lies above! The peg is above the next ledge and is simply a waymarker.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best to belay after the groove, before the jig right, as there isn’t much of a ledge at the official belay spot. The guidebook description is correct in that you move right for about 3m and go up above the undercut arête (left of the arête in the overhang above) - looks a bit unlikely but believe in what lies above! The peg is above the next ledge and is simply a waymarker.

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High E4
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
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High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Plane Sailing

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)

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