UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

45m.

Rockfax Description
A fine companion route to Chimes of Freedom. Start below two prominent right-facing grooves below the main line of overhangs. Climb the easy lower wall to the base of the right-hand groove then make a difficult move up left into the smaller left-hand groove. Follow it to its top then step right below the roof and pull over steeply onto a hanging arete. Go through a gap in the roof above to reach a break. Traverse left beneath another overhang and pull up into a crack which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, R.Broomhead Jul/1977.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist

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High E4
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Amazon

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Lydstep Point Area)

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