Restricted Access
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
An excellent and underrated route. Start just left of a steep groove. Climb up to gain a bulging crack which leads to a pedestal. Finish up and right. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 08/Jun/1969.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rick Sewards | 6 Jan |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. This was originally described going up the groove, and that seemed much the most logical way (stepping left at the break to finish up the thin crack). It was steady HVS done that way, and very good. The current CC Stackpole and Lydstep guide shows it starting left of the groove and going straight up to the crack (and the Rockfax description seems to follow this) and upgrades it to E1. In the CC guide, the groove forms the start of Alcoholics Anonymous (E3). As the original line up the face, I would have thought that the easiest line was the most natural. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. This was originally described going up the groove, and that seemed much the most logical way (stepping left at the break to finish up the thin crack). It was steady HVS done that way, and very good. The current CC Stackpole and Lydstep guide shows it starting left of the groove and going straight up to the crack (and the Rockfax description seems to follow this) and upgrades it to E1. In the CC guide, the groove forms the start of Alcoholics Anonymous (E3). As the original line up the face, I would have thought that the easiest line was the most natural. |
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Space
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Space Buttress)