UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This route follows the big groove in the middle of the south face.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb up to the groove and follow it to the roof. Swing right to belay on a ledge.
2) 5a, 10m. Climb the wall above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock, C.Green 21/Jul/1967.

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User Date Notes
James Tamlyn 27 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E1
guy127917 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not HVS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not HVS!
Furry Goose 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The tat could do with a tidy up/removal
βeta?
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βeta: The tat could do with a tidy up/removal

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mowing Word

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 31
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Galactic Co-ordinator

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

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