UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
20m. The dramatic fissure in the back wall of The Alcove gives a steep (as in overhanging) and well-protected tussle. © Rockfax

FA. Dennis Carr 1977.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , McCoys Homestyle trad , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

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User Date Notes
alexdwaldron 1 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Tat + maillon big tree trunk for abseil off
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βeta: Tat + maillon big tree trunk for abseil off
jameselee85 1 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The trees that were used to belay at the top of the climb have recently been cut down (March 2022). The stumps are still probably usable, for now.
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βeta: The trees that were used to belay at the top of the climb have recently been cut down (March 2022). The stumps are still probably usable, for now.
rhys.nadin 21 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great classic!
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βeta: Great classic!
Edale 20 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom of the climb blocks are coming loose plus right side outer face looking dicey....good climb otherwise
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βeta: Bottom of the climb blocks are coming loose plus right side outer face looking dicey....good climb otherwise
The old James turnbull 29 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: enjoyed when i finished but good so pumped and knackered. that slight overhang is so pumpy.think would have been better if i had climbed it better, good gear just tiring to place. i dont trust all the rock here too as a huge block moved while climbing under the viaduct, scary!!
βeta?
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βeta: enjoyed when i finished but good so pumped and knackered. that slight overhang is so pumpy.think would have been better if i had climbed it better, good gear just tiring to place. i dont trust all the rock here too as a huge block moved while climbing under the viaduct, scary!!

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 106
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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