Rockfax Description
26m. A big scary pitch weaving its way up the wall - low in the grade but quite harrowing. Climb to the top of the flake then traverse right (old peg) to a crack which leads to a rattly traverse back left to reach the upper crack. The direct link is Short Circuit - E3 5c, high in the grade and it is even more terrifying. © Rockfax
FA. Dennis Carr 1977.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| NickAL | 23 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: An excellent route, interesting all the way and includes a bit of everything: jamming, fingery face climbing/laybacking, mantling, hand traversing, awkward thrutch (at the bottom). Steeper than it look too, when you ab down you end up 8ft out from the crag. Worth 3 stars. On the down side – the rock is a bit dirty and some of it only has a vague association with the rest of the crag or is softer than weetabix. The top crack is good for gear but there is only one other decent gear placement before that. (Didn’t see any peg on the traverse right) I was told it was E2 and climbed it on that basis – and that seems fair. If it is E3 than that must be for the poor protection and dodgy rock. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, interesting all the way and includes a bit of everything: jamming, fingery face climbing/laybacking, mantling, hand traversing, awkward thrutch (at the bottom). Steeper than it look too, when you ab down you end up 8ft out from the crag. Worth 3 stars. On the down side – the rock is a bit dirty and some of it only has a vague association with the rest of the crag or is softer than weetabix. The top crack is good for gear but there is only one other decent gear placement before that. (Didn’t see any peg on the traverse right) I was told it was E2 and climbed it on that basis – and that seems fair. If it is E3 than that must be for the poor protection and dodgy rock. |
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| flyin high | 16 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I automatically clipped a peg up and left, before climbing the direct link, which definately brings it down to E3. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I automatically clipped a peg up and left, before climbing the direct link, which definately brings it down to E3. |
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| Frank the Husky | 22 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: it's steady away at E2 and 5c, but there's no doubt it's good...steep climbing, decent gear and great holds when you need them! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: it's steady away at E2 and 5c, but there's no doubt it's good...steep climbing, decent gear and great holds when you need them! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for New Mills Torrs
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Mad Dogs and Englishmen
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Chee Dale Upper)