UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

20m.

Rockfax Description
A great link featuring the crux of both routes to make one extremely sustained outing. Climb to the fourth bolt on 70 Degrees and then traverse to the arched overlap on Clogau Gold. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb 70 Degrees to its 4th bolt, then head over to Clogau Gold to finish.

Ticklists

North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b , North wales 7a+

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Logged Ascents

27 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sara's Wall

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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