Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
Climb to a huge perched flake and pull rightwards up onto the upper wall to finish. Top end of the grade. © Rockfax
FA. I.Andrews, F.Gowling 05/Jul/2008.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BarwoodP | 28 Apr |
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βeta: excellent climb easily 3* | βeta? | |
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βeta: excellent climb easily 3* |
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| Hannahwhaley | 27 May, 2024 |
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βeta: Be careful of the big very loose block just left of the flake under the roof. One of our party nearly pulled it out. It might be better if it can be safely removed before someone pulls it out! Some larger X's have been put on it. Generally that roof section is pretty loose... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Be careful of the big very loose block just left of the flake under the roof. One of our party nearly pulled it out. It might be better if it can be safely removed before someone pulls it out! Some larger X's have been put on it. Generally that roof section is pretty loose... |
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| Lynton | 3 May, 2023 |
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βeta: There is a very aggressive jackdaw nesting in the large flake, highly recommend avoiding this climb and the few surrounding it (we still got attacked at the top of Double Helix) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a very aggressive jackdaw nesting in the large flake, highly recommend avoiding this climb and the few surrounding it (we still got attacked at the top of Double Helix) |
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| heslop_ben | 13 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: Be careful of the birds! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Be careful of the birds! |
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| ellent6702 | 3 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Birds dive-bombing climbers on this route, best to avoid! Assume currently nesting. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Birds dive-bombing climbers on this route, best to avoid! Assume currently nesting. |
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| Dunners1987 | 22 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Overhang protected by a nesting Jackdaw currently. Will dive bomb on sight! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Overhang protected by a nesting Jackdaw currently. Will dive bomb on sight! |
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Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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