UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

15m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall and crack to the overhang. Pull over and nip up the final wall to finish. A good varied pitch. Shares the first bolt with Aphelion. © Rockfax

FA. M.Doyle, M.Burrows 09/Feb/2008.

Ticklists

UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Penmaen Head

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simonroberts1985 19 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Great route, loads of rests and big holds, gets harder near the top.
Show beta
βeta: Great route, loads of rests and big holds, gets harder near the top.
BestPractice 29 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Yep, agreed, the large block under the roof is prob not gonna stay attached for much longer. Someone with the right tools should probably just jimmie it off as it doesn't affect the climb at all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yep, agreed, the large block under the roof is prob not gonna stay attached for much longer. Someone with the right tools should probably just jimmie it off as it doesn't affect the climb at all.
Ian Carr 26 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for a large loose flake under the roof on the right. You don’t need to touch it. But .......
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for a large loose flake under the roof on the right. You don’t need to touch it. But .......

Logged Ascents

534 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 35 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Loading Notifications...