UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

11m.

Rockfax Description
Climb directly up the flowstone to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. C.Doyle, M.Doyle 10/Mar/2007.

Ticklists

Easy peasy Northy Weesy

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User Date Notes
Christheclimber 5 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Needs upgrading to 6a as in the new definitive BMC guidebook.
βeta?
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βeta: Needs upgrading to 6a as in the new definitive BMC guidebook.
HanW 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A bird came for me
βeta?
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βeta: A bird came for me
MorganMcGlade 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Polished start
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βeta: Polished start
Astilath 2 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose bolts! No signs of the birds.
βeta?
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βeta: Loose bolts! No signs of the birds.
Tall Gecko Hands 22 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Don\'t climb until the baby crows leave Aphelion
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βeta: Don't climb until the baby crows leave Aphelion
j.anstee 7 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 6a in New A55 guidebook.
βeta?
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βeta: 6a in New A55 guidebook.
Rob-Tomo 14 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good warm up needed, hard on the fore arms.
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βeta: Good warm up needed, hard on the fore arms.

Logged Ascents

1366 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
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