UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

11m.

Rockfax Description
Interesting climbing on good flowstone and passing some stuck-on conglomerate towards the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Doyle, C.Doyle 10/Mar/2007.

Ticklists

Easy peasy Northy Weesy , UK Flowstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
Christheclimber 5 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: 5a my arse, it’s now given 6a in the new BMC definitive guidebook.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 5a my arse, it’s now given 6a in the new BMC definitive guidebook.
MorganMcGlade 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Polished and anchor has some wear
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Polished and anchor has some wear

Logged Ascents

1303 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 37 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Route 1

Grade: 5a ***
(Castle Inn Quarry)

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