Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
A bouldery start gains the still demanding groove above. © Rockfax
FA. N.Clacher, I.Andrews 28/Feb/2008.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Gecko Hands | 26 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nicely grippy holds, but that means slipping off them will cost some finger skin. The crux is going for the glued on blocks above the first bolt, which I eventually managed to stick the dyno to with a high left foot and right hand side pull. There are a lot of surprisingly good holds afterwards, but the scoop above can get pumpy, especially if clipping with no rests | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Nicely grippy holds, but that means slipping off them will cost some finger skin. The crux is going for the glued on blocks above the first bolt, which I eventually managed to stick the dyno to with a high left foot and right hand side pull. There are a lot of surprisingly good holds afterwards, but the scoop above can get pumpy, especially if clipping with no rests |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Killer Quarry
Grade: 6c ***
(Penmaen West Quarry)