UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

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Last update: 17/06/2025  

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11m.

Rockfax Description
The final line on the right side of the Red Wall. Climb just left of the corner. © Rockfax

FA. T.Shelmerdine, N.Clacher 11/Mar/2008.

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Logged Ascents

43 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
North Wales Climbs Cover
North Wales Climbs (2023)
Rockfax
By Mark Reeves, Mark Glaister
North Wales Limestone Cover
North Wales Limestone (2023)
On Sight Publishing
By Andy Boorman & Ian Carr
A55 Sport Climbs Cover
A55 Sport Climbs (2019)
Pesda Press Ltd
By Michael Doyle
Guidebook correction for this climb
3 users have this on their wishlist

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High 6c
Mid 6c
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
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Mid 6b
Low 6b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mark Hounslea on Iskra, The Gallery (F6b+). Provocatively labeled as the best 6b+ in the UK by one pundit.
Iskra

Grade: 6b+ ***
(The Gallery)

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