UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

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Last update: 01/07/2024  

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11m.

Rockfax Description
A tight line, especially at the start. Make thin moves to gain some flowstone and conglomerate. © Rockfax

FA. C.Doyle, M.Doyle 14/Mar/2007.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
North Wales Climbs Cover
North Wales Climbs (2023)
Rockfax
By Mark Reeves, Mark Glaister
North Wales Limestone Cover
North Wales Limestone (2023)
On Sight Publishing
By Andy Boorman & Ian Carr
A55 Sport Climbs Cover
A55 Sport Climbs (2019)
Pesda Press Ltd
By Michael Doyle
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mike Bailey's Route

Grade: 6b ***
(Creigiau Gigfran)

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