UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

11m.

Rockfax Description
Start on a flat block. Execute a tough sequence to pass the initial bolt to access easier but good climbing above. © Rockfax

FA. M.Doyle, C.Doyle 14/Mar/2007.

Feedback

User Date Notes
_Adam_Howard_ 24 Feb, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Got this on the second try. Really cool rock over move using the sharp pocket/undercling and wide pinch. Will do this again next time for sure.
Show beta
βeta: Got this on the second try. Really cool rock over move using the sharp pocket/undercling and wide pinch. Will do this again next time for sure.
Pete_Frost 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest move is at the start! Don\'t get suckered into going too far right our you\'ll never get back again.
Show beta
βeta: The hardest move is at the start! Don't get suckered into going too far right our you'll never get back again.

Logged Ascents

418 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mike Bailey's Route

Grade: 6b ***
(Creigiau Gigfran)

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