Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
Climb a series of shallow technical grooves just left of the crest of a pillar. Treat the hanging flake with the respect it deserves. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb a series of shallow technical grooves just left of the crest of the pillar, treating the hanging flake with the respect it deserves.
FA. Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers 27/Jul/2010.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jezb1 | 5 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Filthy. Cobwebs to start then the lichen and mud increase the higher you get. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Filthy. Cobwebs to start then the lichen and mud increase the higher you get. |
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| Steve Long | 24 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Serious fall potential clipping 3rd bolt. Lots of evidence of broken holds, definitely requires care. Didn't spot any sign of a hanging flake, maybe its gone? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Serious fall potential clipping 3rd bolt. Lots of evidence of broken holds, definitely requires care. Didn't spot any sign of a hanging flake, maybe its gone? |
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| ljkenny | 18 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Needs a good clean. Holds are super dusty. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Needs a good clean. Holds are super dusty. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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Rib Rider
Grade: 6b S0 ***
(Lighthouse Crags)