Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
Gain the initial groove and follow it to a tricky exit and a ledge on the right. Enter the upper groove and continue to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Not particularly gratifying. Climb a short wall to gain the first groove, follow this to a tricky exit on suspect holds and gain the ledge on the right. Enter the upper groove then stroll to the lower-off.
FA. Harold Walmsley, Colin Struthers 26/Aug/2010.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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Rib Rider
Grade: 6b S0 ***
(Lighthouse Crags)