Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
A leftwards diagonal line up the wall has a good rest at mid-height. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Situated on Rainbow wall, a new sector directly above the footbridge over the A55. A leftwards diagonal line, with three distinct sections and hands off rests in-between. 15 bolts. Long quickdraws essential to prevent rope drag.
John Stringfellow, Dave Vose 27/Aug/2021.
Ticklists
North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anna Rowe | 28 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo is different to the guide book. The guide book shows the route starting to the right of rainbow wall and the left of refraction, then trending left to a mid way ledge, climb straight up from the ledge to the right of the black streak to another no hands rest and then trend left to the top. Don't finish where rockfax indicates, finish at the top. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo is different to the guide book. The guide book shows the route starting to the right of rainbow wall and the left of refraction, then trending left to a mid way ledge, climb straight up from the ledge to the right of the black streak to another no hands rest and then trend left to the top. Don't finish where rockfax indicates, finish at the top. |
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| John Stringfellow | 24 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: Missing hanger on final bolt replaced. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Missing hanger on final bolt replaced. |
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| Ian Ford | 4 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: The Rockfax topo is wrong. It shows a lower off half way up that isn’t there. It also takes you up Rainbow Wall instead with a stiff 7a+ finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax topo is wrong. It shows a lower off half way up that isn’t there. It also takes you up Rainbow Wall instead with a stiff 7a+ finish. |
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| Andy Moles | 13 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Besides the dusty loose rock and the roar of the A55 - quite good! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Besides the dusty loose rock and the roar of the A55 - quite good! |
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| Dave Lyon | 3 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Fabulous route, super solid, as said, - take some long quickdraws! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fabulous route, super solid, as said, - take some long quickdraws! |
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| John Stringfellow | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Long quickdraws essential to avoid rope drag. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Long quickdraws essential to avoid rope drag. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Rub-a-Dub-Dub
Grade: 7a ***
(The Diamond)