Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
Take a direct line up the right-hand side of the face. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts two metres right of over the rainbow and takes a direct line up the RH side of the face.
John Stringfellow, Dave Vose 16/Sep/2021.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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Map of the Problematique
Grade: 7a ***
(Penmaenbach Quarry)