UKC Logbook - 'Mealystopheles'

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress. Climb this to enter the awkward left-facing groove above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Follow Mealy Bugs, but once in the scoop, traverse round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there. This is awkward to start but soon eases. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 1965.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User	Date		Notes
Alkis	19 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: I can deal with polish, I can deal with loose rock and I can deal with vegetation. All three at the same time? No. The climb, in its current state, is awful. It could be a significant effort to clean.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I can deal with polish, I can deal with loose rock and I can deal with vegetation. All three at the same time? No. The climb, in its current state, is awful. It could be a significant effort to clean.
Jon Stewart	4 Jul, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Not sure, but I think either the description or the grade is wrong here. On the second pitch, I went left of the steep groove, which apart from looking about 5b was covered in bird poo. This followed an obvious line (Mealybugs) and led to a step right to the peg. On Peak Rock gives the second pitch 5b (presumably up the steep groove described here), and I can't see how this could be downgraded to 4c.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not sure, but I think either the description or the grade is wrong here. On the second pitch, I went left of the steep groove, which apart from looking about 5b was covered in bird poo. This followed an obvious line (Mealybugs) and led to a step right to the peg. On Peak Rock gives the second pitch 5b (presumably up the steep groove described here), and I can't see how this could be downgraded to 4c.