UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Strange name, good route! The right side of the Elegy slab is at the limit of friction and the grade varies from E4 to E6 depending on how high you put the side runner in The Bulger.
A wire in Elegy can also be used to reduce the swing potential. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Clive Coolhead Realises the Excitement of Knowing You May be the Author of Your Own Death is More Intense Than Orgasm.

FA. Nick Dixon 1983.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Slab Dreams , Best Before 2025 , Grit List , Will's Whippers

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillMancini 21 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Really fun climb, cleaned on a shunt and then lead. Smears felt scrittly and flaky before brushing. It’s nice and clean now though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really fun climb, cleaned on a shunt and then lead. Smears felt scrittly and flaky before brushing. It’s nice and clean now though.
Aly 27 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sublimely sustained moves up the slab though with no real crux. It might be worth getting a mate to brush this on ab as doing it on the lead is a nightmare. One of the best slabs at the roaches?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sublimely sustained moves up the slab though with no real crux. It might be worth getting a mate to brush this on ab as doing it on the lead is a nightmare. One of the best slabs at the roaches?
mark s 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: the hardest moves are the first couple once on the slab,i did it in the wet and fell off 3 times before toping out.excelent route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the hardest moves are the first couple once on the slab,i did it in the wet and fell off 3 times before toping out.excelent route.

Logged Ascents

29 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Antithesis

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)

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