Rockfax Description
Perhaps the best slab route in Western Grit! Climb the awkward overhanging corner to the base of the upper crack and large cams. Balance left to the tantalising flake and if you are completely baffled, try a bit of lateral thinking. Follow the creaky flake to its end (slightly dubious runners) then weave a way up the final bald slab connecting a set of small blisters by brilliantly intense climbing. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Simpkins (tension to start) 1960. FFA. John Yates 1969.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , BMC staffordshire slab exam , Best slab climbs of the UK , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Work Hard, Play Hard , Get out on Rock , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , On Peak Rock , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Peaky , Slab Dreams , Jaimey's tricky slab list , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Winter 23/24 , East and West Top 25 , A.P's summer: England and Wales expansion pack , 20 Good Gritstone E2s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alpinelegend69 | 8 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely gripped. Thought it was all over when I pulled easily onto the upper slab but the intensity kept on growing until my fingers edged over the top | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely gripped. Thought it was all over when I pulled easily onto the upper slab but the intensity kept on growing until my fingers edged over the top |
||||
| Jus | 3 Dec, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I daftly had a bash at this in the 30 degree heat summer last year. Big mistake! The step accross took a while to work out what to do, and really sets you up for what's coming. I got stranded very near the top when misread the slab, and with aching sweaty & numb feet I called for a top rope! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I daftly had a bash at this in the 30 degree heat summer last year. Big mistake! The step accross took a while to work out what to do, and really sets you up for what's coming. I got stranded very near the top when misread the slab, and with aching sweaty & numb feet I called for a top rope! |
||||
| andy_b135 | 12 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't care what anyone say's this is harder than chalkstorm. About 2/3 of the way up the upper slab was the crux for me, a tricky little move with the exposure makes it quite intense. The bulge didn't feel possible till I did it then seemed quite easy. Must do route | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Don't care what anyone say's this is harder than chalkstorm. About 2/3 of the way up the upper slab was the crux for me, a tricky little move with the exposure makes it quite intense. The bulge didn't feel possible till I did it then seemed quite easy. Must do route |
||||
| Pythonist | 19 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Geezus! The BMC guide suggests placing high gear - I didn't (bomber placement straight in front of you for the crux), hence that gear only protected that move. I then proceeded to get so gripping two moves above the end of the flake, I needed rescuing! With higher gear in the Bulger, I would say this is a stiff E2, without it's terrifying! The rule for both the Bulger section and the crux (easy 5c) is simply to keep your body as far out from the rock as you can get! Chalkstorm (on-sighted) didn't feel this bad! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Geezus! The BMC guide suggests placing high gear - I didn't (bomber placement straight in front of you for the crux), hence that gear only protected that move. I then proceeded to get so gripping two moves above the end of the flake, I needed rescuing! With higher gear in the Bulger, I would say this is a stiff E2, without it's terrifying! The rule for both the Bulger section and the crux (easy 5c) is simply to keep your body as far out from the rock as you can get! Chalkstorm (on-sighted) didn't feel this bad! |
||||
| Sean_J | 15 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: WOW! This is the best slab i've ever climbed. Found the VS crack really awkward though, almost as bad as The Move across! The top 2 metres or so of the slab were "intense", to quote the guidebook; nasty fall potential as well, expect to lose most of your shoes and skin. I'd give it (easy?) E3; it's definitely harder than Chalkstorm (which should only be E2). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: WOW! This is the best slab i've ever climbed. Found the VS crack really awkward though, almost as bad as The Move across! The top 2 metres or so of the slab were "intense", to quote the guidebook; nasty fall potential as well, expect to lose most of your shoes and skin. I'd give it (easy?) E3; it's definitely harder than Chalkstorm (which should only be E2). |
||||
| The Pylon King | 17 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Almost worth E3 for that last move on the slab - thank god i moved away from Grit!!!!!! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Almost worth E3 for that last move on the slab - thank god i moved away from Grit!!!!!! |
||||
| Michael Hood | 17 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The move left is not that hard once you work out how to do it, but it seems like a lot of people never work it out. I have on a couple of occasions helped people out by giving the beta (after asking if they wanted it) when they've been in-situ for some time. Incidentally I still reckon it's worth E2 even with a runner high in Bulger - look at the photo and work out where you'd finish coming off the last slab move - only just above the o'hang. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The move left is not that hard once you work out how to do it, but it seems like a lot of people never work it out. I have on a couple of occasions helped people out by giving the beta (after asking if they wanted it) when they've been in-situ for some time. Incidentally I still reckon it's worth E2 even with a runner high in Bulger - look at the photo and work out where you'd finish coming off the last slab move - only just above the o'hang. |
||||
| Ricardo | 13 Feb, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Aye - drop the beta on elegy!!!! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Aye - drop the beta on elegy!!!! |
||||
| climbingsimon | 18 Dec, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree that any beta should be omitted - one of the great things with Elegy is working out how to do THAT move. You get get a F4 above your head without climbing up the VS. Top slab is no gift, but the gear is pretty good - agree with Davey's comment there. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Agree that any beta should be omitted - one of the great things with Elegy is working out how to do THAT move. You get get a F4 above your head without climbing up the VS. Top slab is no gift, but the gear is pretty good - agree with Davey's comment there. |
||||
| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Having Toproped it on Sunday, I agree with Al, If that move is 5c then Chalkstorm is "only" 5a!!. Maybe if you could get a huge friend above your head before you step of the ledge on the right maybe it is E2? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Having Toproped it on Sunday, I agree with Al, If that move is 5c then Chalkstorm is "only" 5a!!. Maybe if you could get a huge friend above your head before you step of the ledge on the right maybe it is E2? |
||||
| Horse | 23 Feb, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Surely we don\'t need so much beta for the technical crux? | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Surely we don't need so much beta for the technical crux? |
||||
| mark s | 20 Feb, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: the bulge is the crux and the slab is quite easy | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: the bulge is the crux and the slab is quite easy |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Gumshoe
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Ramshaw Rocks)