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16m.

Rockfax Description
Perhaps the best slab route in Western Grit! Climb the awkward overhanging corner to the base of the upper crack and large cams. Balance left to the tantalising flake and if you are completely baffled, try a bit of lateral thinking. Follow the creaky flake to its end (slightly dubious runners) then weave a way up the final bald slab connecting a set of small blisters by brilliantly intense climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Simpkins (tension to start) 1960. FFA. John Yates 1969.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Work Hard, Play Hard, Get out on Rock, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, On Peak Rock, World Class Britain & Ireland, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alpinelegend69 8 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely gripped. Thought it was all over when I pulled easily onto the upper slab but the intensity kept on growing until my fingers edged over the top
βeta?
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βeta: Absolutely gripped. Thought it was all over when I pulled easily onto the upper slab but the intensity kept on growing until my fingers edged over the top
Jus 3 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I daftly had a bash at this in the 30 degree heat summer last year. Big mistake! The step accross took a while to work out what to do, and really sets you up for what's coming. I got stranded very near the top when misread the slab, and with aching sweaty & numb feet I called for a top rope!
βeta?
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βeta: I daftly had a bash at this in the 30 degree heat summer last year. Big mistake! The step accross took a while to work out what to do, and really sets you up for what's coming. I got stranded very near the top when misread the slab, and with aching sweaty & numb feet I called for a top rope!
andy_b135 12 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Don't care what anyone say's this is harder than chalkstorm. About 2/3 of the way up the upper slab was the crux for me, a tricky little move with the exposure makes it quite intense. The bulge didn't feel possible till I did it then seemed quite easy. Must do route
βeta?
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βeta: Don't care what anyone say's this is harder than chalkstorm. About 2/3 of the way up the upper slab was the crux for me, a tricky little move with the exposure makes it quite intense. The bulge didn't feel possible till I did it then seemed quite easy. Must do route
Pythonist 19 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Geezus! The BMC guide suggests placing high gear - I didn't (bomber placement straight in front of you for the crux), hence that gear only protected that move. I then proceeded to get so gripping two moves above the end of the flake, I needed rescuing! With higher gear in the Bulger, I would say this is a stiff E2, without it's terrifying! The rule for both the Bulger section and the crux (easy 5c) is simply to keep your body as far out from the rock as you can get! Chalkstorm (on-sighted) didn't feel this bad!
βeta?
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βeta: Geezus! The BMC guide suggests placing high gear - I didn't (bomber placement straight in front of you for the crux), hence that gear only protected that move. I then proceeded to get so gripping two moves above the end of the flake, I needed rescuing! With higher gear in the Bulger, I would say this is a stiff E2, without it's terrifying! The rule for both the Bulger section and the crux (easy 5c) is simply to keep your body as far out from the rock as you can get! Chalkstorm (on-sighted) didn't feel this bad!
Sean_J 15 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: WOW! This is the best slab i've ever climbed. Found the VS crack really awkward though, almost as bad as The Move across! The top 2 metres or so of the slab were "intense", to quote the guidebook; nasty fall potential as well, expect to lose most of your shoes and skin. I'd give it (easy?) E3; it's definitely harder than Chalkstorm (which should only be E2).
βeta?
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βeta: WOW! This is the best slab i've ever climbed. Found the VS crack really awkward though, almost as bad as The Move across! The top 2 metres or so of the slab were "intense", to quote the guidebook; nasty fall potential as well, expect to lose most of your shoes and skin. I'd give it (easy?) E3; it's definitely harder than Chalkstorm (which should only be E2).
Mark S Davies 17 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Almost worth E3 for that last move on the slab - thank god i moved away from Grit!!!!!!
βeta?
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βeta: Almost worth E3 for that last move on the slab - thank god i moved away from Grit!!!!!!
Michael Hood 17 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The move left is not that hard once you work out how to do it, but it seems like a lot of people never work it out. I have on a couple of occasions helped people out by giving the beta (after asking if they wanted it) when they've been in-situ for some time. Incidentally I still reckon it's worth E2 even with a runner high in Bulger - look at the photo and work out where you'd finish coming off the last slab move - only just above the o'hang.
βeta?
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βeta: The move left is not that hard once you work out how to do it, but it seems like a lot of people never work it out. I have on a couple of occasions helped people out by giving the beta (after asking if they wanted it) when they've been in-situ for some time. Incidentally I still reckon it's worth E2 even with a runner high in Bulger - look at the photo and work out where you'd finish coming off the last slab move - only just above the o'hang.
Ricardo 13 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Aye - drop the beta on elegy!!!!
βeta?
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βeta: Aye - drop the beta on elegy!!!!
climbingsimon 18 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Agree that any beta should be omitted - one of the great things with Elegy is working out how to do THAT move. You get get a F4 above your head without climbing up the VS. Top slab is no gift, but the gear is pretty good - agree with Davey's comment there.
βeta?
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βeta: Agree that any beta should be omitted - one of the great things with Elegy is working out how to do THAT move. You get get a F4 above your head without climbing up the VS. Top slab is no gift, but the gear is pretty good - agree with Davey's comment there.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Having Toproped it on Sunday, I agree with Al, If that move is 5c then Chalkstorm is "only" 5a!!. Maybe if you could get a huge friend above your head before you step of the ledge on the right maybe it is E2?
βeta?
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βeta: Having Toproped it on Sunday, I agree with Al, If that move is 5c then Chalkstorm is "only" 5a!!. Maybe if you could get a huge friend above your head before you step of the ledge on the right maybe it is E2?
Horse 23 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Surely we don't need so much beta for the technical crux?
 
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βeta: Surely we don't need so much beta for the technical crux?
mark s 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: the bulge is the crux and the slab is quite easy
βeta?
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βeta: the bulge is the crux and the slab is quite easy

Logged Ascents

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 134
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Commander Energy

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)